rue Lakanal
In the morning Leena and I went to the market on Place aux Herbes to buy apples. We came back to my place and made an apple crumble. Nisha joined us after a trying experience waiting in line at various offices looking to buy Eurail passes for her sister's upcoming visit.
We took the crumble over to Vincent's, who had invited us to lunch. It seemed he'd forgotten about the invitation however, as no one was home. We hung out in the stairwell for a few minutes and then phoned him. He was on his way home from working in a new gallery scheduled to open at the end of the month. He was tired and maybe a little aggravated at having three sugared up Anglophones in his kitchen. He made an excellent vegetable quiche and served it with a simple salad and red wine. Cheese and baguette followed. And then our dessert.
Leena and I decided to climb the Bastille twice to make up for the large lunch.
After eating, and recognizing that Vincent was calculating how to get us to leave, we went for coffee and tea to this cafe/bar. Grenoble is experiencing a cold snap, so we sat indoors. Leena ordered a lemon tea, Vincent a tea, and Nisha and I each had a cafe.
Wednesday, May 31, 2006
Monday, May 29, 2006
Cafe de la Table Ronde
Place St. Andre
I had a picnic lunch in the garden of Grenoble's art museum with Vincent, Nisha, Eve, Leena, and Lionel (he works there). We discussed cat near death experiences and parents guilty of drowning kittens. When it was time for Lionel to go back to work, the rest of us moved on to this cafe, sitting in what's become a regular spot on the plaza under the restaurant's awning.
I wasn't expecting a cafe experience, so I'd left home without my notebook and pen. Nisha offered a scrap of paper and Leena found a chewed pencil in her bag. Writing on a scrap with a cast away pencil reminded me of my mother's preferred method of keeping track of her B&B reservations ("I might have a full house this weekend," she'll say, "Except I can't remember if I rented out the downstairs bedroom or not.").
Leena wasn't sure where the pencil came from. "I don't know where I found this," she said passing it to me, dusting of some remaining flakes of blue paint. The consensus at the table was that the pencil most probably came from one of the elementary schools she was teaching at this year. No one investigated her teeth for blue paint chips or to see if they matched the marks on the pencil.
Vincent ordered a sirop citron a l'eau, Leena drank a grand cafe, and the rest of us stuck to simple cafes.
I had a picnic lunch in the garden of Grenoble's art museum with Vincent, Nisha, Eve, Leena, and Lionel (he works there). We discussed cat near death experiences and parents guilty of drowning kittens. When it was time for Lionel to go back to work, the rest of us moved on to this cafe, sitting in what's become a regular spot on the plaza under the restaurant's awning.
I wasn't expecting a cafe experience, so I'd left home without my notebook and pen. Nisha offered a scrap of paper and Leena found a chewed pencil in her bag. Writing on a scrap with a cast away pencil reminded me of my mother's preferred method of keeping track of her B&B reservations ("I might have a full house this weekend," she'll say, "Except I can't remember if I rented out the downstairs bedroom or not.").
Leena wasn't sure where the pencil came from. "I don't know where I found this," she said passing it to me, dusting of some remaining flakes of blue paint. The consensus at the table was that the pencil most probably came from one of the elementary schools she was teaching at this year. No one investigated her teeth for blue paint chips or to see if they matched the marks on the pencil.
Vincent ordered a sirop citron a l'eau, Leena drank a grand cafe, and the rest of us stuck to simple cafes.
Sunday, May 28, 2006
Cafe de la Table Ronde
Place St. Andre
After a seemingly vertical hike in the sun up to the Vierge Noire (Chapel of the Black Virgin) and a water fight at a public pump, Eve, Nisha, Leena, and I made our way to this cafe.
I ordered a sirop citron a l'eau and the others each had a demi-peche.
After a seemingly vertical hike in the sun up to the Vierge Noire (Chapel of the Black Virgin) and a water fight at a public pump, Eve, Nisha, Leena, and I made our way to this cafe.
I ordered a sirop citron a l'eau and the others each had a demi-peche.
Thursday, May 25, 2006
Le XIII Cafe
Place Notre Dame
It was the Feast of the Ascension and what better place to take a drink than in front of the museum that was once Notre Dame Cathedral? We sat on the plaza behind the fountain commemorating Grenoble's role in the Revolution. Jean drank a demi, Leena had a demi-framboise, Eve a demi-peche, Nisha an iced tea, and I had a cafe.
It was the Feast of the Ascension and what better place to take a drink than in front of the museum that was once Notre Dame Cathedral? We sat on the plaza behind the fountain commemorating Grenoble's role in the Revolution. Jean drank a demi, Leena had a demi-framboise, Eve a demi-peche, Nisha an iced tea, and I had a cafe.
Tuesday, May 23, 2006
Le Touring Hotel
Avenue Alsace-Lorraine
After rollerblading from the Maison de Culture and along the path by the old train tracks, Eve and I descended on one of our standby cafes.
Discussing options for evenings out, Eve proposed side by side nightclubs for gay men and their straight female friends. Or vice versa. She logically explained that with one cover charge and a single coat check but two dance floors everyone could find what they were looking for. Straight men would stay in the women's section without their primal fear of being seduced by the fitter, more attractive, and younger looking gay counterparts and straight women would have the chance to spent a night out with their gay male friends but without the eventual disappointment of taking a taxi home alone.
She wasn't sure that a third section for lesbians fit into the concept. Maybe a corner with a bulletin board for casserole recipe exchanges.
Eve drank a demi-peche and I downed a citron a l'eau.
After rollerblading from the Maison de Culture and along the path by the old train tracks, Eve and I descended on one of our standby cafes.
Discussing options for evenings out, Eve proposed side by side nightclubs for gay men and their straight female friends. Or vice versa. She logically explained that with one cover charge and a single coat check but two dance floors everyone could find what they were looking for. Straight men would stay in the women's section without their primal fear of being seduced by the fitter, more attractive, and younger looking gay counterparts and straight women would have the chance to spent a night out with their gay male friends but without the eventual disappointment of taking a taxi home alone.
She wasn't sure that a third section for lesbians fit into the concept. Maybe a corner with a bulletin board for casserole recipe exchanges.
Eve drank a demi-peche and I downed a citron a l'eau.
Sunday, May 21, 2006
Cafe de la Table Ronde
Place St. Andre
Gossip and catching up after vacations with Leena and Eve. They each ordered a demi-peche and I continued my liking for sirop citron a l'eau.
Gossip and catching up after vacations with Leena and Eve. They each ordered a demi-peche and I continued my liking for sirop citron a l'eau.
Saturday, May 20, 2006
Softail Bar
Place Hubert Dubedout
There was a light rain all day, which hampered some of the fun for the unveiling of Grenoble's new tram line. The hampering actually began on Thursday and Friday when the city's transit workers were on strike. The symbolism of their timing was duly noted, and they were back on the job in time for the weekend of free bus service. If only I needed to go somewhere in town.
Leena and I went to a flea market, where she observed that everyone was selling stuff they didn't want. I guess in India they sell things they want to keep?
But the cold wet weather was getting to us, so we searched out a cafe. The first three were closed (cafe owners strike?), so we ended up at this bar. It's situated at a rotary near the river with full view of the Bastille.
We sat side by side, looking out the window at the clouds trying to pass over the mountain. The clouds collected on the east side before pushing over and dissipating.
From our seats we also had a great view of the 50+ couple sitting in the corrner. They rolled their own cigarettes and fondled each other. We tried not to stare.
I had a grand cafe, Leena a grand cafe au lait.
There was a light rain all day, which hampered some of the fun for the unveiling of Grenoble's new tram line. The hampering actually began on Thursday and Friday when the city's transit workers were on strike. The symbolism of their timing was duly noted, and they were back on the job in time for the weekend of free bus service. If only I needed to go somewhere in town.
Leena and I went to a flea market, where she observed that everyone was selling stuff they didn't want. I guess in India they sell things they want to keep?
But the cold wet weather was getting to us, so we searched out a cafe. The first three were closed (cafe owners strike?), so we ended up at this bar. It's situated at a rotary near the river with full view of the Bastille.
We sat side by side, looking out the window at the clouds trying to pass over the mountain. The clouds collected on the east side before pushing over and dissipating.
From our seats we also had a great view of the 50+ couple sitting in the corrner. They rolled their own cigarettes and fondled each other. We tried not to stare.
I had a grand cafe, Leena a grand cafe au lait.
Friday, May 19, 2006
Odysseus
Aliveri, Greece
Toni and I took a bus out to this town south of our hotel. We were dropped off in a sort of blazing hot wasteland of a gas station, small markets, and vacant shops. Stumbling upon what appeared to be a restaurant, Toni, in her two weeks old self taught Greek, asked the man and woman cleaning the tables if they were open. Confusion ensued.
Shortly after, we found ourselves in the back seat of Maria's car as she drove us God knows where. She smiled and we hoped it wasn't psychotic.
It wasn't. She dropped us at another of Greece's apparently numerous seaside restaurant districts. She asked a few questions of one restaurant proprietor who agreed to take care of us. Which he did. We had a great meal of grilled chicken and fried fish. Accompanied by one of many Greek salads on this trip.
After our meal, we walked up to this cafe where Toni ordered an iced frappe and I asked for a Greek coffee. Instead she got a sweetened hot coffee and I received what seemed to be regular coffee (no sludge). But all was forgiven when the owner, Mario, offered to drive us back to our hotel. Which we accepted and only regretted briefly during the fast winding drive.
Toni and I took a bus out to this town south of our hotel. We were dropped off in a sort of blazing hot wasteland of a gas station, small markets, and vacant shops. Stumbling upon what appeared to be a restaurant, Toni, in her two weeks old self taught Greek, asked the man and woman cleaning the tables if they were open. Confusion ensued.
Shortly after, we found ourselves in the back seat of Maria's car as she drove us God knows where. She smiled and we hoped it wasn't psychotic.
It wasn't. She dropped us at another of Greece's apparently numerous seaside restaurant districts. She asked a few questions of one restaurant proprietor who agreed to take care of us. Which he did. We had a great meal of grilled chicken and fried fish. Accompanied by one of many Greek salads on this trip.
After our meal, we walked up to this cafe where Toni ordered an iced frappe and I asked for a Greek coffee. Instead she got a sweetened hot coffee and I received what seemed to be regular coffee (no sludge). But all was forgiven when the owner, Mario, offered to drive us back to our hotel. Which we accepted and only regretted briefly during the fast winding drive.
Friday, May 12, 2006
Diogenes
Athens, Greece
After enduring the heat in the Agora and the Acropolis, Toni and I stumbled into this tree covered restaurant for a mid-afternoon break of reading, writing, and drinking. She had a diet Coke and I had an iced tea.
After enduring the heat in the Agora and the Acropolis, Toni and I stumbled into this tree covered restaurant for a mid-afternoon break of reading, writing, and drinking. She had a diet Coke and I had an iced tea.
Wednesday, May 10, 2006
Oyzen
Amarynthos, Greece
Toni and I relaxed at this seaside cafe on our first full day in Greece. Two greek coffees, sludge and all.
Toni and I relaxed at this seaside cafe on our first full day in Greece. Two greek coffees, sludge and all.
Friday, May 05, 2006
L'Etage/Cafe de la Table Ronde
Jardin de Ville/Place St. Andre
I woke up on the wrong side of the bed, and spent the better part of the morning looking for a new pair of shorts - not too short, not too expensive, not too tight, not too dark, not too strange, etc. Liberation from the cycle of sales racks came in the form of a phone call from Jean, the Cajun (not really, but he sounds like one).
I met Jean and Stephane in front of FNAC and headed to L'Etage, a sweet cafe with seating in the city park. Regretably, the city park has a large path of cinders and sand which fly all aver the place when the wind comes whipping up the river. Jean and Stephane each had a demi, I drank a noisette. All full of grit.
We moved to the more elaborate Place St. Andre and Grenoble's oldest restaurant - La Table Ronde - and were joined by Vincent. The three Frenchies each had a demi, and I partook in a sirop citron a l'eau, this time free from grit.
The day was looking up.
Glossary
demi - half pint of beer
noisette - espresso with milk
sirop citron a l'eau - water with a dollop of lemon syrup (tastes like a weak lemonade)
I woke up on the wrong side of the bed, and spent the better part of the morning looking for a new pair of shorts - not too short, not too expensive, not too tight, not too dark, not too strange, etc. Liberation from the cycle of sales racks came in the form of a phone call from Jean, the Cajun (not really, but he sounds like one).
I met Jean and Stephane in front of FNAC and headed to L'Etage, a sweet cafe with seating in the city park. Regretably, the city park has a large path of cinders and sand which fly all aver the place when the wind comes whipping up the river. Jean and Stephane each had a demi, I drank a noisette. All full of grit.
We moved to the more elaborate Place St. Andre and Grenoble's oldest restaurant - La Table Ronde - and were joined by Vincent. The three Frenchies each had a demi, and I partook in a sirop citron a l'eau, this time free from grit.
The day was looking up.
Glossary
demi - half pint of beer
noisette - espresso with milk
sirop citron a l'eau - water with a dollop of lemon syrup (tastes like a weak lemonade)
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